SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEWS
Welcome to the Scotch Whiskey section of reviews. Here, reviews are categorised based on the distillery locations, divided into the Highlands, Lowlands, Speyside, Campbeltown & Islay.
how whiskies are reviewed
whiskies are sampled in a glencairn; the official glass used by distilleries, tasting venues and festivals, designed to get the most out of the spirit
They are left to ‘breathe’ for a minimum of 10 minutes. This allows time for the compounds in the spirit to react with the air and unveil their aromas and flavour further
The whiskies are then judged based on five classic criteria employed in the industry: colour, body, nose, palate and finish.
in certain cases, a drop or two of water will be added to open the whiskey up further. this is often used in cases where the abv is greater than 43%, or where further judgment is required
whiskies are THEN given a score out of 5, which encompasses the five criteria, as well as personal opinion on the background of the whiskey, its production methods, retail value and reputation.
reviews are categorised by THE WHISKY’S REGION of production
Click below to find out more:
Next to some whiskey titles you may also notice acronyms – click the legend below to find out what these refer to.
LEGEND
Whiskies are broad in their character, value and distribution methods. Next to some titles you will therefore encounter acronyms which account of these to help understand why these are factored in to the scoring, which will be explained below.
IR (Independent Release)
Many whiskies are bottled by independent parties. Independent bottlings will tend to carry the name of the distillery, the bottling strength, the batch number, the age, and, if it comes from a single cask, the number of bottles produced from it. This adds both a rarity and a collectibility value to them. The two are not mutually exclusive however: distillery bottlings can be from single casks and yearly vintage releases. Many distilleries will often choose to have their products independently bottled to save on costs, and independent bottlings also allows customers to still enjoy products from those distilleries that no longer bottle their own or rarely do so. Independent bottlers also offer a sense of novelty and creativity that diversifies the whiskey scene. Examples of independent bottlers include Gordon & MacPhail, Cadenheads, SMWS, Hunter Laing’s (First Editions, Old Malt Casks, Old & Rare), Compass Box & Signatory.
CS (Cask Strength)
Whiskey by law must be bottled at a minimum strength of 40% ABV (80 proof.) When the spirit is drawn from the cask, water is then added in order to bring it down to this threshold. Whilst many whiskies hover between the 40% to 46% mark, cask strength whiskies on the other hand are just that; whiskies bottled at their natural ABV without the addition of water. These tend to deliver greater complexities of flavor and nuances in character, which are often muted by dilution. Distilleries often do a series of cask strength whiskies as a yearly batch release. Aberlour produce ex-sherry cask whiskies, known as their A’Bunadh range. Glenfarclas also do a widely-popular and highly-valued single-cask Family Cask series.
Ironically however, many whiskies at cask strength also benefit greatly from the slow and minimal addition of water (typically by pipette) to activate chemical reactions with the oils in the whiskies that then unveil flavor and develop additional ones. There is a great satisfaction in spending an evening with a dram
LR (Limited Release)
Bottlings marked as Limited Release may have been produced by a distillery to either mark a specific event, person or period in time. If the number of bottles produced for a particular whiskey is known, this will be also noted on the lavek. As expected, limited release whiskies are few in number and often the best chances to try them are to visit festivals, which some distilleries bottle specifically for (Lagavulin being an example for the Feis Ile festival), attend an extended distillery tasting event or bid for them at an auction.
DF (DUTY FREE)
Limited edition travel exclusive bottlings which can only be acquired at the respective distillery and/or an airport duty free. As the name mentions, Duty Free bottlings by their nature are already limited release, so the acronym above won’t be used alongside.
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Speyside Whisky
ARDMORE / THE BALVENIE / BENRIACH / DAILUAINE / GLENFIDDICH / THE GLENLIVET / INCHGOWER / SPEYBURN
Reviews of whisky from the most densely populated distillery region of Scotland, home to fertile grounds, river valleys and glens and around 50 distilleries.
Ardmore : 8 Year
50% ABV | 70cl | SPEYSIDE | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
An independent release from the Creative Whisky Co, the Ardmore spirit is aged for 8 years entirely in a wine cask and bottled at 50%. While interesting on paper however, the flavor profile on offer here is limited.
COLOR
Dirty sepia. Tawny/straw beading.
BODY
Thin and light, with fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Old leather and boot polish.
PALATE
Damp moss, black pepper, salt and seaweed.
FINISH
Thin, short and hot. Pepper lingers.
SCORE: 2.5/5
The Balvenie : 14 Year
43% ABV | 5cl | SPEYSIDE
Introduced in 2009, the Caribbean Cask release from The Balvenie offers a classic Speyside style which is soon marred by an awkward, eclectic mix of notes over time. A longer period in rum casks could have improved this one.
COLOR
Golden barley. No beading.
BODY
Oily with thick, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Mixed fruit cocktail in syrup, followed by brown sugar and red apple skins. Poached pears unveil with time, followed by sawn oak and lime flesh.
PALATE
Toasted almonds alongside heaps of brown sugar. Prominent vanilla and custard powder. A little hot after a while, which brings in wood spice and cloves.
FINISH
Brown sugar and vanilla notes lend to raisins and double cream that unveil slowly but assuredly on exit. Unfortunately, the hotness then replaces this with citrus over time.
SCORE: 3.5/5
The Balvenie : 17 Year DoubleWood
43% ABV | 5cl | SPEYSIDE
Now discontinued, the 17 year took the 12 year and matured it for a further 5 years. Unfortunately here, longer maturation does not equal greater quality.
COLOR
Tawny with a tinge of sepia. No beading.
BODY
Moderately oily with thick, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
A rich, luxurious aroma of baked figs and roasted walnuts that evolves into stone fruits, dried fruits, toasted white bread (slightly buttered), ginger and vanilla.
PALATE
A little hot to start with, but then caramel followed by cappuccino, cinnamon and hazelnuts. The sharpness unfortunately prevents any sense of fluency.
FINISH
Hotness on the palate continues, leading to drying oak spice, lime rind and salt.
SCORE: 3.5/5
Benriach : 17 Year (PX Finish)
46% ABV | 70cl | SPEYSIDE
A now discontinued bottling from the famous Speyside distillery, this 17 Year was finished in ex-Pedro Ximénez casks from the Jerez region of Spain. While complex, robust and at a modest price tag (at the time), the palate left a little more to be desired. A close but no cigar.
COLOR
Polished amber. 9ct beading.
BODY
Thin, yet with slow-moving, thick legs.
NOSE
Immediately fruit salad and leather tannins. Fresh-cut apples and caramel become prominent here, then blackberries and syrup-soaked clementines. Further breathing unveils a banoffee pie character.
PALATE
Blackberries and blackcurrants alongside classic bourbon character. Dark chocolate soon comes to the forefront.
FINISH
Warming caramel and oak spice lends to an almond-like nuttiness.
SCORE: 4/5
Dailuaine : 6 Year
40% ABV | 20cl | SPEYSIDE | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
Distilled back in 2010, this independently bottled ex-bourbon matured Single Malt Scotch Whisky provided by The Whisky Shop’s Glenkeir Treasures selection demonstrates a pleasingly robust character and finish.
COLOR
Tawny, pale.
BODY
Long, thin oily legs.
NOSE
Humming of brittle toffee and sour, ripe grapefruit.
PALATE
Surprisingly mouthfilling: chewy christmas cake, though nothing sickly or overpowering. Suggestions of allspice. Toffee makes its bolder statement.
FINISH
Christmas cake and butter rolls away to thinly sliced fresh green apples.
SCORE: 4/5
Glenfiddich : Reserve Cask
40% ABV | 35cl | SPEYSIDE | TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE
Part one of the three travel exclusive cask editions, the Reserve Cask centralises on spirits matured in Spanish sherry casks, which are subsequently married in a unique Solera Vat. The result in this case is a moresome, delicious dram at a bargain price for its size.
COLOR
Rusty bronze.
BODY
Oily with slow-moving, long legs.
NOSE
Grapefruit, pine, toffee brittle and crushed walnuts follow lime and leather. Black tea leaves on further breathing.
PALATE
Satsumas, mint leaves, tannins. Suggestion of polished oak and dark chocolate with a ‘fruit-and-nut’ bar mouthfeel.
FINISH
Chocolate, sweet oranges and walnuts continue to a subtle, gentle spicy exit.
SCORE: 4.5/5
The Glenlivet : 12 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | SPEYSIDE
Once discontinued then re-emerged after public demand, The Glenlivet’s 12 Year, noted as one of the most famous whiskies in the world, is a sadly disappointing affair, with a megre palate and finish.
COLOR
Golden barley with bright yellow beading.
BODY
Oily with thin, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Pineapples, peaches and honey. Raisins follow on further breathing, alongside cola-bottle candies, melon skin and passion fruit.
PALATE
Little going on here – honey and subtle oak spice to start with. Typical American Oak character; vanilla, yet too thin for any toffee flavor, and none of the intriguing notes found on the nose. Cola-bottle candy comes through, however it’s very subtle, and one has to search for it.
FINISH
Slightly short, yet not too drying. Oak spice, honey and gooseberries.
SCORE: 3.5/5
Inchgower : 9 Year
46% ABV | 70cl | SPEYSIDE | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
Aged entirely in a wine cask for 9 years, this independent bottling from Hunter Laing’s First Editions is an extraordinary example of maturation done to excellence.
COLOR
Rich, deep bronze and maroon. Beautiful beading. Depth of amber.
BODY
Thick, very slow moving legs with moderately viscous mouthfeel.
NOSE
Through breathing, dark chocolate and burnt toffee give way to rich sherried notes of dried fruits. Promising.
PALATE
A little sharp to start with, yet notes of juicy blackcurrants and orange peel begin to come through, followed by peach and apricot.
FINISH
Sharp, yet rounded. Dried stone fruits and citric notes recede into vanilla.
SCORE: 5/5
Speyburn : 10 Year
40% ABV | 5cl | SPEYSIDE
The first age-statemented in Speyburn’s lineup represents a solid range of Speyside characters for a respectable price tag, making this a bar essential.
COLOR
Pale straw with bright yellow beading.
BODY
Mildly oily, with thin, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Initially caramel and honey, followed by marshmallows, red apples and vanilla pods. Further breathing unveils jelly babies.
PALATE
Apricots and grapefruit, bold and affirmed, followed by fresh drizzled honey. A lovely, soft mouthfeel.
FINISH
Grapefruit continues, alongside ripe lemons, leading to a satisfyingly drying oak finish.
SCORE: 4.5/5
Highlands Whisky
BEN NEVIS / THE DALMORE / GLENGOYNE / HIGHLAND PARK / JURA / TULLIBARDINE
Reviews from the largest geographical region of Scotland, which incorporates the Scottish Isles (except for Isle of Islay), separated by the border to the Lowlands (Glasgow, Dumfries & Galloway and Lothian)
Ben Nevis : 9 Year
46% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
An independent Douglas of Drumlanrig bottling, and one of the last from Ben Nevis, matured in an ex-bourbon single cask for 9 years of just 384 bottles produced.
COLOR
Pale beige, tawny lights.
BODY
Light, long and slow-moving thin legs. Very thin bodied.
NOSE
Merlot wine, orchard fruits, suggestions of raisins and pears.
PALATE
Slow-moving butter; chewy and mouth filling. Dense fudge, toffee, squeezed raisins, touch of almonds all carried with a moist, cakey texture.
FINISH
Warmth rolls over to a thin finish of sour grapefruit and gooseberry.
SCORE: 4/5
Jura : 18 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
The eldest age-statemented product in Jura’s new line-up ends their range on a confident and developed crescendo – proving that if they keep things simple and remain within their element they can produce some respectable whiskies.
COLOR
Tarnished brass.
BODY
Medium. Slow moving, thin legs.
NOSE
Stewed raisins and orange marmalade.
PALATE
Flecks of dark chocolate sprinkled over freshly roasted espresso beans, layered with a pleasant humming of cinnamon and orange.
FINISH
Chocolate and coffee continue for a moment, falling away a little too soon.
SCORE: 4.5/5
The Dalmore : 15 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
From a distillery way up in Alness, by Aberdeen, The Dalmore 15 is matured in American White Oak casks for 12 years, followed by 3 years in Amoroso, Apostoles and Matusalem sherry casks giving an earthy, yuletide-flavoured dram that rings festive and all things cheerful.
COLOR
Polished ruby, bronze lights.
BODY
Thin, slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Polished oak opens up to ripe plums, glazed cherries and orange marmalade.
PALATE
Raisins, sultanas and stewed fruits. Orange essence on further breathing, and a suggestion of cinnamon and nutmeg.
FINISH
Floating warmth from affirmed orange, lingering spice and dry acidity.
SCORE: 4/5
Jura : Prophecy
40% ABV | 20cl | HIGHLANDS
A now delisted peated entry from Jura that feels somewhat clunky and indecisive in its character, lacking the smoke it markets and offering very little in its mid-palate and top notes.
COLOR
Golden nectar.
BODY
Moderately oily.
NOSE
Leather charred over an oak fireplace.
PALATE
Leather non-existent here, predominantly peat smoke and sea water, albeit too thin to bring any other notes in.
FINISH
Like biting into a packet of steak and onion ridge-cut chips.
SCORE: 2/5
Glengoyne : 21 Year
43% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
Straddling the border along the A81 at Glasgow, Glengoyne is the only distillery to distill in the Highlands, at the slowest rate, and mature in the Lowlands. Championing time, patience and unpeated, sherried whisky, their 21 Year is testament to their well-honed craft and stands as one of the greatest Scotland has to offer.
COLOR
Polished bronze with mahogany tint and 18k beading.
BODY
Oily, thick and slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Stewed plums, blackberries and black cherry marmalade on a base of oak spice. Further breathing unveils juicy cranberries, warm, thick caramel and red apple skins. There’s a woodiness here that never dominates; providing a solid support for the middle and top notes. Swirling it for longer brings an almost candied lemon to the front.
PALATE
Classic Oloroso character; drying yet soft, woody and mellow. Raisins, plums and figs, slowly baked. A silk-like mouthfeel here, testament to its time spent in solely sherry casks. Holding it in the mouth for longer and melted butter unveils itself.
FINISH
Sustained, soft yet drying and resinous all at once, all thanks to its oily body. Stone fruits, grapes and leather tannins. Not a single note off-key. Beautifully harmonious.
SCORE: 5/5
Jura : Seven Wood
42% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
The island’s most ambitious of their new range is finished in a combination of six different French oak casks (Vosges, Jupilles, Les Bertranges, Allier, Tronçais, and Limousin) offering a relatively pleasing nose but a monotonous palate devoid of the characters hoping to have been developed from multiple wine cask influence. A sadly missed opportunity.
COLOR
Polished gold.
BODY
Medium. Slow moving, thin legs.
NOSE
Rich, freshly baked banana bread resting in an oven with a large bowl of cookie/cake mixture sitting next to it. Promising.
PALATE
None of the notes above present here. Maybe a suggestion of raisins(?) I searched and found nothing.
FINISH
Bitter and hot. Too many casks spoil the whisky, especially in this case of a constrained ABV. A real shame.
SCORE: 2/5
Highland Park : 12 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
Known for their use of Orcadian Peat, the hallmark age-statement from the well-known distillery in Kirkwall, Orkney is matured in the classic Bourbon-Sherry combo. Unfortunately however, this is a dram that leaves you desiring more.
COLOR
Rich gold, 24k with bright beading.
BODY
Moderately oily with thick, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Peaches, apricots and caramelised oranges, followed by white grapes and a faint suggestion of wood.
PALATE
Subtle peat smoke, followed by white pepper, vanilla and green apples. I really had to let this one breathe and search hard for these notes.
FINISH
The peat smoke disappears very quickly, however the finish is drying and warming, almost comforting, like a shearling coat in the dead of December. A touch of lemon rind.
SCORE: 3.5/5
Tullibardine : 225
43% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
The highland distillery’s recent addition to their line-up is finished in a 225L Sauternes cask which once held dessert wine from Château Suduiraut. Unfortunately, the constrained character here fails in showing off what could have possibly been a multi-layered, enticing dram.
COLOR
Pale straw.
BODY
Oily. Slow moving, thick legs.
NOSE
Pineapples follow apricots layered with peaches and jelly candies. Suggestion of banana bread.
PALATE
An upfront pepper, almost hot on the tongue. Pineapples, peaches and apricots precede chewy mixed gummy bears and bite-sized marshmallow chunks.
FINISH
Disappointingly short; the Sauternes influence doesn’t stick around for long. A subtle linger of thin banana bread slices; not thick enough. Missing that sticky, chewy mouthfeel you’d expect from this type of wine cask influence.
SCORE: 3/5
Lowlands Whisky
AUCHENTOSHAN
Reviews of whiskies from the lowest part of Scotland and the most commonly travelled to from the England and Wales, noted for their light, floral and honeyed flavors and triple-distilling.
Auchentoshan : 5 Year (IR)
46% ABV | 70cl | LOWLANDS | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
An independent Càrn Mòr bottling, part of their Strictly Limited range, distilled in 2012, matured in single sherry puncheon and limited to 697 bottles.
COLOR
Beautiful, deep 18k gold with a tinge of orange. 9k beading.
BODY
Moderately oily with thick, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Baked figs and plums open up to blood oranges, pineapple and coconut shavings, followed by boiled sweets, honey and brown cane sugar.
PALATE
Brown cane sugar, honey and cinnamon dusting soon following. A suggestion of allspice and custard powder.
FINISH
Instantly drying oak spice with an intense, yet not overpowering warmth.
SCORE: 4/5
Campbeltown Whisky
GLEN SCOTIA
Once heralded as the ‘Whisky Capital of the World’, Campbeltown is now home to just three distilleries: Glen Scotia, Glengyle (bottled as Kilkerran) and Springbank, with vintage bottlings of the latter fetching for considerable amounts at auction houses.
Glen Scotia : Port Finish 2008
57.8% ABV | 70cl | CAMPBELTOWN | LIMITED RELEASE
A cask strength release, bottled in 2018 for the Malts Festival, this whiskey offers some interesting, sumptuous flavors, let short by its lack of development and lackluster finish.
COLOR
Rusty amber. Gold beading.
BODY
Oily. Long, slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Musty leather and cranberries.
PALATE
Water unveils juicy fruits; cranberries and pomegranates.
FINISH
Musty character returns with rock salt and lime juice.
SCORE: 3/5
Islay Whisky
BOWMORE / BUNNAHABHAIN / KILCHOMAN / LAGAVULIN / LAPHROAIG
Reviews which cover whiskies from the Isle of Islay, typically characterised by their intensely smoky, medicinal and maritime flavours, from distilleries across the Kildalton Coast, as well as up north of Port Ellen and westward.
Bowmore : 9 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE
An entirely sherry cask matured whiskey from Islay’s oldest distillery, the Bowmore 9 Year sounds promising on paper but fails to deliver on its oak influence.
COLOR
Blushing bronze.
BODY
Medium, fast-moving, thin legs.
NOSE
Fudge and brown sugar.
PALATE
The sherry influence comes in first, with very subtle dark chocolate, then subtle peat smoke, TCP/medicinal character, before the sherry character returns.
FINISH
Warming smoke and gooseberries.
SCORE: 3/5
Kilchoman : Sauternes Cask 2016
50% ABV | 5cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE | 6,000 BOTTLES
This entirely Sauternes-matured whisky distilled back in 2011 boasts impressively fleshed out candied notes balanced delicately with musty, phenolic smoke.
COLOR
Polished gold.
BODY
Light. Very slow-moving thin legs.
NOSE
Candied sweets follow vanilla, toffee, plums and orange essence all off a sticky piece of leather. Water introduces burnt phosphorous paper, akin to matchbox paper.
PALATE
Musty wood smoke, followed by chewy candied sweets, jelly babies and syrup-soaked orange cubes.
FINISH
Humming of gelatine sweetness continues alongside signature smoke.
SCORE: 4/5
Laphroaig : Lore
48% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE
Combining a blend of older-stock spirit from five different types of wood to reflect the long, complex history of the distillery, the Lore unfortunately doesn’t do this justice, with disappointing, constrained palate notes and thins considerably on the finish.
COLOR
Golden barley, tawny lights.
BODY
Long, fast-moving legs. Oily.
NOSE
Polished fence (oak), lime, phenols, dried old seaweed on a muddy, desolate beach. Old, musty study desks and swimming pool chlorine follow.
PALATE
Seaweed evolves next to antiseptic cream, rock salt lingers. For its ABV, there is an expectation of more here.
FINISH
Short and sharp.
SCORE: 2.5/5
Bunnahabhain : 12 Year
46.3% ABV | 5cl | ISLAY
With a respectable ABV for a 12 year, seldom noticed with bottlings of the same age, this well-established aged statement from Islay’s maverick distillery is truly impressive, and does something other distilleries whose USP is sherry cask Scotch should take note of.
COLOR
Brass.
BODY
Medium, with slow-moving, thin legs.
NOSE
Plums, fruit cake and tangerines, all bold and vibrant. A suggestion of banana and cloves.
PALATE
Fruit cake, ripe plums and candied orange and marmalade. This is big, bold sherried character.
FINISH
Very subtle, gentle, discernable whiff of smoke. Mildly drying, with a resinuous exit of autumn spice.
SCORE: 4.5/5
Lagavulin : 16 Year
43% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY
A staple of the peated whisky world, the Lagavulin 16 has seen considerable volatility in its market price in recent months. Owing to this, the character at play here doesn’t quite justify the dollars.
COLOR
Golden amber with 18k beading.
BODY
Oily with thick, fast-moving legs
NOSE
Peat smoke, seaweed (run ashore) and pine oil. Further breathing unveils sea salt and tropical fruits.
PALATE
Peat smoke, tar and brine. An earthiness, which works nicely alongside the peat, yet leaves you desiring for more.
FINISH
Cereal notes, particularly malt barely comes through here, leading to a drying finish. While many would agree this is a beast, the peat smoke on offer here feels more welterweight.
SCORE: 3.5/5
The Secret Islay : 8 Year (IR)
40% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | INDEPENDENT BOTTLING
An independent bottling from The Whisky Shop as part of their Glenkeir Treasures series, the peated spirit from this unknown distillery is aged in sherry casks to deliver a flavor that embodies classic Islay Scotch at a modest price tag.
COLOR
Blood orange, ruby lights.
BODY
Oily. Long, slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Bonfire smoke and tobacco ash.
PALATE
Dark chocolate, rose water, burnt tobacco and jasmine leaf. Some interesting combinations here, yet they work well without overpowering one another.
FINISH
Short but with little tang. The palate notes fade gently away.
SCORE: 4/5
Bunnahabhain : 12 Year (IR)
50% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
The Bunnahabhain 12 Year, released by independent bottlers Hunter Laing as part of their single cask Old Malt Cask series, is a well-developed spirit with both breadth and depth.
COLOR
Rusty amber, golden yellow beading.
BODY
Oily, slow-moving, medium legs.
NOSE
Stewed fruits, brittle toffee and fresh valley moss, with musty leather soon following.
PALATE
Black pepper, caramel and fruit salad candy chews followed by milk chocolate.
FINISH
Black pepper sustains itself here, along with characteristic oak spice.
SCORE: 4/5
Lagavulin : Jazz 2016
54.5% ABV | 5cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE
An absolute stunner of a whisky, the Jazz 2016 is a collectable bottling to celebrate the distillery’s bicentenary and the Islay Jazz Festival 2016. Bottled straight from refilled American oak hogsheads and first-fill American oak barrels, this dram fits the festive shoe perfectly.
COLOR
Very pale copper, touch of green.
BODY
Medium legs, medium body.
NOSE
Split vanilla pods. Papaya cubes.
PALATE
Gunpowder smoke, bonfire ash. Charred oakwood. Crushed rock salt and black pepper follow. Water accentuates. A humming of granulated brown sugar. This is how it’s done.
FINISH
Fiery cocktail continues, seasoning lends to burnt ash. While there is a sharp exit, it comes with a sustained warmth. There are no half measures with this one, nor should there be. A helm of an achievement.
SCORE: 5/5
Kilchoman : Loch Gorm 2016
46% ABV | 5cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE
A sherry-matured release from Kilchoman, named after the respective loch in Scotland and distilled in 2010 before being bottled in 2016. An interesting and obscure concoction of pungent notes let down by an underdeveloped thin body and lack of finish.
COLOR
Polished bronze.
BODY
Light. Very thin, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Burning industrial plastic; profound and developed. A striking image of an old, dark wooden study desk burning in a murky winter field. Leather boot polish follows.
PALATE
Phenolic. Dark chocolate and fireside moss. Slight suggestion of used bubblegum – tough with little candied flavour remaining. Like sniffing a half-used cigarette lighter. Vapid, wishing for further character.
FINISH
Thin on the finish. Overall could benefit from a higher ABV / at cask strength.
SCORE: 2.5/5
Laphroaig : Quarter Cask
48% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY
An outstanding NAS from the famed Islay distillery; matured in American oak then quarter-sized casks to boost its phenolic, muscular character further. A true zenith, the Quarter Cask encapsulates everything that makes peated Islay whisky both great and divisive, and rightly celebrates it too.
COLOR
Brass clarinet
BODY
Thin with fast moving, surprisingly oily legs.
NOSE
Tangerines and iodine. Water introduces dusty old garden sheds; unkempt, well-worn, untreated. Volatile sediment/residue at the bottom of an empty petroleum tank.
PALATE
Smoked BBQ chips that develop to burnt alongside coal and cigarette ash. Hardened leather, coarse, punished in a vat of industrial spirit. A humming of pine oil.
FINISH
A continued envelope of sophisticated phenolic character. Sustained and affirmed. Muscular and volatile. Picture lighting your tenth Marlboro inside a ramshackle garden shed with petrol cans littered amongst the wood rot. But all in a complex way. If you like your whiskey nautical and brutal, you’ll love this. Quality stuff.
SCORE: 5/5
Blended Whisky
CUTTY SARK
Wrongly presumed as being inferior to Single Malt Whiskies, blended whiskies have been around for much longer and have a complex, interesting history; providing the Scotch scene with both variety and significant financial lifeblood for its many distilleries.
Cutty Sark : 25 Years
45.7% ABV | 70cl | BLENDED
For its age, the release from Berry Bros & Rudd (at the time) is frustratingly disappointing, with a considerable lack of depth and complexity expected from a spirit with stock of this maturation period.
COLOR
Dirty gold with orange beading.
BODY
Thin, slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Tropical fruits, stone fruits, thick caramel and berries, followed by vanilla pods.
PALATE
Dark fruits and dark chocolate. Feels somewhat limited.
FINISH
Acrid tang leaves a longing for more.
SCORE: 3/5
Cutty Sark : Prohibition
50% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | INDEPENDENT BOTTLING
With a highly respectable ABV and extraordinary flavors to boot, the Cutty Sark Prohibition does the blended whisky market thorough justice whilst retaining a modest price tag.
COLOR
Golden sunshine. Yellow beading.
BODY
Medium. Oily, fast-moving, thin legs.
NOSE
White grape skin, black cherries, plum jam, vanilla pods and rock salt unveil one after the other, followed by black fruits and leather.
PALATE
Fruit cake, plum and blueberry jam. Figs soon follow, with a suggestion of dates.
FINISH
Marmalade notes slowly recede away.
SCORE: 5/5
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Scotch Whisky Reviews
Welcome to the Scotch Whiskey section of reviews. Here, reviews are categorised based on the distillery locations, divided into the Highlands, Lowlands, Speyside, Campbeltown & Islay
HOW WHISKIES ARE REVIEWED
WHISKIES ARE SAMPLED IN A GLENCAIRN; THE OFFICIAL GLASS USED BY DISTILLERIES, TASTING VENUES AND FESTIVALS, DESIGNED TO GET THE MOST OUT OF THE SPIRIT
THEY ARE LEFT TO ‘BREATHE’ FOR A MINIMUM OF 10 MINUTES. THIS ALLOWS TIME FOR THE COMPOUNDS IN THE SPIRIT TO REACT WITH THE AIR AND UNVEIL THEIR AROMAS AND FLAVOUR FURTHER
THE WHISKIES ARE THEN JUDGED BASED ON FIVE CLASSIC CRITERIA EMPLOYED IN THE INDUSTRY: COLOUR, BODY, NOSE, PALATE AND FINISH.
IN CERTAIN CASES, A DROP OR TWO OF WATER WILL BE ADDED TO OPEN THE WHISKEY UP FURTHER. THIS IS OFTEN USED IN CASES WHERE THE ABV IS GREATER THAN 43%, OR WHERE FURTHER JUDGMENT IS REQUIRED
WHISKIES ARE THEN GIVEN A SCORE OUT OF 5, WHICH ENCOMPASSES THE FIVE CRITERIA, AS WELL AS PERSONAL OPINION ON THE BACKGROUND OF THE WHISKEY, ITS PRODUCTION METHODS, RETAIL VALUE AND REPUTATION.
reviews are categorised by THE WHISKY’S REGION of production
Click below to find out more:
Next to some whiskey titles you may also notice acronyms – click the legend below to find out what these refer to.
LEGEND
Whiskies are broad in their character, value and distribution methods. Next to some titles you will therefore encounter acronyms which account of these to help understand why these are factored in to the scoring, which will be explained below.
IR (Independent Release)
Many whiskies are bottled by independent parties. These buy the cask from a distillery, then take on the responsibility of bottling (at a particular ABV), marketing, distributing and selling them. Independent Bottlings bear the branding of the company themselves, and you will often see them all appear the same. Examples of independent bottlers include Gordon & MacPhail, Cadenheads, SMWS, Hunter Laing’s (First Editions, Old Malt Casks, Old & Rare), Compass Box & Signatory.
CS (Cask Strength)
Whilst many whiskies hover between the 40% to 46% mark, cask strength whiskies on the other hand are just that; whiskies bottled at their natural ABV without the addition of water. These tend to deliver greater complexities of flavor and nuances in character, which are often muted by dilution. Distilleries often do a series of cask strength whiskies as a yearly batch release. Aberlour produce ex-sherry cask whiskies, known as their A’Bunadh range. Glenfarclas also do a widely-popular and highly-valued single-cask Family Cask series.
LR (limited Release)
Bottlings marked as Limited Release may have been produced by a distillery to either mark a specific event, person or period in time. If the number of bottles produced for a particular whiskey is known, this will be also noted on the lavek. As expected, limited release whiskies are few in number and often the best chances to try them are to visit festivals, which some distilleries bottle specifically for (Lagavulin being an example for the Feis Ile festival), attend an extended distillery tasting event or bid for them at an auction.
DF (DUTY FREE)
Limited edition travel exclusive bottlings which can only be acquired at the respective distillery and/or an airport duty free. As the name mentions, Duty Free bottlings by their nature are already limited release, so the acronym above won’t be used alongside.
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Speyside Whisky
ARDMORE / THE BALVENIE / BENRIACH / DAILUAINE / GLENFIDDICH / INCHGOWER / THE GLENLIVET / SPEYBURN
Reviews of whisky from the most densely populated distillery region of Scotland, home to fertile grounds, river valleys and glens and around 50 distilleries.
Ardmore : 8 Year (IR)
50% ABV | 70cl | SPEYSIDE | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
An independent release from the Creative Whisky Co., the Ardmore spirit is aged for 8 years entirely in a wine cask and bottled at 50%. While interesting on paper however, the flavor profile on offer here is limited
COLOR
Dirty sepia. Tawny/straw beading.
BODY
Thin and light, with fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Old leather and boot polish.
PALATE
Damp moss, black pepper, salt and seaweed.
FINISH
Thin, short and hot. Pepper lingers.
SCORE: 2.5/5
The Balvenie : 14 Year
43% ABV | 5cl | SPEYSIDE
Introduced in 2009, the Caribbean Cask release from The Balvenie offers a classic Speyside style marred by an awkward, eclectic mix over time. A longer period in rum casks could have improved this one.
COLOR
Golden barley. No beading.
BODY
Oily with thick, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Mixed fruit cocktail in syrup, followed by brown sugar and red apple skins. Poached pears unveil with time, followed by sawn oak and lime flesh.
PALATE
Toasted almonds alongside heaps of brown sugar. Prominent vanilla and custard powder. A little hot after a while, which brings in wood spice and cloves.
FINISH
Brown sugar and vanilla notes lend to raisins and double cream that unveil slowly but assuredly on exit. Unfortunately, the hotness then replaces this with citrus over time.
SCORE: 3.5/5
The Balvenie : 17 Year DoubleWood
43% ABV | 5cl | SPEYSIDE
Now discontinued, the 17 year took the 12 year and matured it for a further 5 years. Unfortunately here, longer maturation does not equal greater quality.
COLOR
Tawny with a tinge of sepia. No beading.
BODY
Moderately oily with thick, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
A rich, luxurious aroma of baked figs and roasted walnuts that evolves into stone fruits, dried fruits, toasted white bread (slightly buttered), ginger and vanilla.
PALATE
A little hot to start with, but then caramel followed by cappuccino, cinnamon and hazelnuts. The sharpness unfortunately prevents any sense of fluency.
FINISH
Hotness on the palate continues, leading to drying oak spice, lime rind and salt.
SCORE: 3.5/5
Benriach : 17 Year (PX Finish)
46% ABV | 70cl | SPEYSIDE
A now discontinued bottling from the famous Speyside distillery, this 17 Year was finished in ex-Pedro Ximénez casks from the Jerez region of Spain. While complex, robust and at a modest price tag (at the time), the palate left a little more to be desired. A close but no cigar.
COLOR
Polished amber. 9ct beading.
BODY
Thin, yet with slow-moving, thick legs.
NOSE
Immediately fruit salad and leather tannins. Fresh-cut apples and caramel become prominent here, then blackberries and syrup-soaked clementines. Further breathing unveils a banoffee pie character.
PALATE
Blackberries and blackcurrants alongside classic bourbon character. Dark chocolate soon comes to the forefront.
FINISH
Warming caramel and oak spice lends to an almond-like nuttiness.
SCORE: 4/5
Dailuaine : 6 Year
40% ABV | 20cl | SPEYSIDE | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
Distilled back in 2010, this independently bottled ex-bourbon matured Single Malt Scotch Whisky provided by The Whisky Shop’s Glenkeir Treasures selection demonstrates a pleasingly robust character and finish.
COLOR
Tawny, pale.
BODY
Long, thin oily legs.
NOSE
Humming of brittle toffee and sour, ripe grapefruit.
PALATE
Surprisingly mouth filling: chewy christmas cake, though nothing sickly or overpowering. Suggestions of allspice. Toffee makes its bolder statement.
FINISH
Christmas cake and butter rolls away to thinly sliced fresh green apples.
SCORE: 4/5
Glenfiddich : Reserve Cask
40% ABV | 35cl | SPEYSIDE | TRAVEL EXCLUSIVE
Part one of the three travel exclusive cask editions, the Reserve Cask centralises on spirits matured in Spanish sherry casks, which are subsequently married in a unique Solera Vat. The result in this case is a moresome, delicious dram at a bargain price for its size.
COLOR
Rusty bronze.
BODY
Oily with slow-moving, long legs.
NOSE
Grapefruit, pine, toffee brittle and crushed walnuts follow lime and leather. Black tea leaves on further breathing.
PALATE
Satsumas, mint leaves, tannins. Suggestion of polished oak and dark chocolate with a ‘fruit-and-nut’ bar mouthfeel.
FINISH
Chocolate, sweet oranges and walnuts continue to a subtle, gentle spicy exit.
SCORE: 4.5/5
The Glenlivet : 12 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | SPEYSIDE
Once discontinued then re-emerged after public demand, The Glenlivet’s 12 Year, noted as one of the most famous whiskies in the world, is a sadly disappointing affair, with a megre palate and finish.
COLOR
Golden barley with bright yellow beading.
BODY
Oily with thin, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Pineapples, peaches and honey. Raisins follow on further breathing, alongside cola-bottle candies, melon skin and passion fruit.
PALATE
Little going on here – honey and subtle oak spice to start with. Typical American Oak character; vanilla, yet too thin for any toffee flavor, and none of the intriguing notes found on the nose. Cola-bottle candy comes through, however it’s very subtle, and one has to search for it.
FINISH
Slightly short, yet not too drying. Oak spice, honey and gooseberries.
SCORE: 3.5/5
Inchgower : 9 Year
46% ABV | 70cl | SPEYSIDE | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
Aged entirely in a wine cask for 9 years, this independent bottling from Hunter Laing’s First Editions is an extraordinary example of maturation done to excellence.
COLOR
Rich, deep bronze and maroon. Beautiful beading. Depth of amber.
BODY
Thick, very slow moving legs with moderately viscous mouthfeel.
NOSE
Through breathing, dark chocolate and burnt toffee give way to rich sherried notes of dried fruits. Promising.
PALATE
A little sharp to start with, yet notes of juicy blackcurrants and orange peel begin to come through, followed by peach and apricot.
FINISH
Sharp, yet rounded. Dried stone fruits and citric notes recede into vanilla.
SCORE: 5/5
Speyburn : 10 Year
40% ABV | 5cl | SPEYSIDE
The first age-statemented in Speyburn’s lineup represents a solid range of Speyside characters for a respectable price tag, making this a bar essential.
COLOR
Pale straw with bright yellow beading.
BODY
Mildly oily, with thin, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Initially caramel and honey, followed by marshmallows, red apples and vanilla pods. Further breathing unveils jelly babies.
PALATE
Apricots and grapefruit, bold and affirmed, followed by fresh drizzled honey. A lovely, soft mouthfeel.
FINISH
Grapefruit continues, alongside ripe lemons, leading to a satisfyingly drying oak finish.
SCORE: 4.5/5
Highlands Whisky
BEN NEVIS / THE DALMORE / GLENGOYNE / HIGHLAND PARK / JURA / TULLIBARDINE
Reviews from the largest geographical region of Scotland, which incorporates the Scottish Isles (except for Isle of Islay), separated by the border to the Lowlands (Glasgow, Dumfries & Galloway and Lothian)
Ben Nevis : 9 Year
46% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS | INDEPENDENT BOTTLING
An independent Douglas of Drumlanrig bottling, and one of the last from Ben Nevis, matured in an ex-bourbon single cask for 9 years of just 384 bottles produced.
COLOR
Pale beige, tawny lights.
BODY
Light, long and slow-moving thin legs. Very thin bodied.
NOSE
Merlot wine, orchard fruits, suggestions of raisins and pears.
PALATE
Slow-moving butter; chewy and mouth filling. Dense fudge, toffee, squeezed raisins, touch of almonds all carried with a moist, cakey texture.
FINISH
Warmth rolls over to a thin finish of sour grapefruit and gooseberry.
SCORE: 4/5
The Dalmore : 15 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
From a distillery way up in Alness, by Aberdeen, The Dalmore 15 is matured in American White Oak casks for 12 years, followed by 3 years in Amoroso, Apostoles and Matusalem sherry casks giving an earthy, yuletide-flavoured dram that rings festive and all things cheerful.
COLOR
Polished ruby, bronze lights.
BODY
Thin, slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Polished oak opens up to ripe plums, glazed cherries and orange marmalade.
PALATE
Raisins, sultanas and stewed fruits. Orange essence on further breathing, and a suggestion of cinnamon and nutmeg.
FINISH
Floating warmth from affirmed orange, lingering spice and dry acidity.
SCORE: 4/5
Glengoyne : 21 Year
43% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
Straddling the border along the A81 at Glasgow, Glengoyne is the only distillery to distill in the Highlands, at the slowest rate, and mature in the Lowlands. Championing time, patience and unpeated, sherried whisky, their 21 Year is testament to their well-honed craft and stands as one of the greatest Scotland has to offer.
COLOR
Polished bronze with mahogany tint and 18k beading.
BODY
Oily, thick and slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Stewed plums, blackberries and black cherry marmalade on a base of oak spice. Further breathing unveils juicy cranberries, warm, thick caramel and red apple skins. There’s a woodiness here that never dominates; providing a solid support for the middle and top notes. Swirling it for longer brings an almost candied lemon to the front.
PALATE
Classic Oloroso character; drying yet soft, woody and mellow. Raisins, plums and figs, slowly baked. A silk-like mouthfeel here, testament to its time spent in solely sherry casks. Holding it in the mouth for longer and melted butter unveils itself.
FINISH
Sustained, soft yet drying and resinous all at once, all thanks to its oily body. Stone fruits, grapes and leather tannins. Not a single note off-key. Beautifully harmonious.
SCORE: 5/5
Highland Park : 12 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
Known for their use of Orcadian Peat, the hallmark age-statement from the well-known distillery in Kirkwall, Orkney is matured in the classic Bourbon-Sherry combo. Unfortunately however, this is a dram that leaves you desiring more.
COLOR
Rich gold, 24k with bright beading.
BODY
Moderately oily with thick, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Peaches, apricots and caramelised oranges, followed by white grapes and a faint suggestion of wood.
PALATE
Subtle peat smoke, followed by white pepper, vanilla and green apples. I really had to let this one breathe and search hard for these notes.
FINISH
The peat smoke disappears very quickly, however the finish is drying and warming, almost comforting, like a shearling coat in the dead of December. A touch of lemon rind.
SCORE: 3.5/5
Jura : 18 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
The eldest age-statemented product in Jura’s new line-up ends their range on a confident and developed crescendo – proving that if they keep things simple and remain within their element they can produce some respectable whiskies.
COLOR
Tarnished brass.
BODY
Medium. Slow moving, thin legs.
NOSE
Stewed raisins and orange marmalade.
PALATE
Flecks of dark chocolate sprinkled over freshly roasted espresso beans, layered with a pleasant humming of cinnamon and orange.
FINISH
Chocolate and coffee continue for a moment, falling away a little too soon.
SCORE: 4.5/5
Jura : Prophecy
40% ABV | 20cl | HIGHLANDS
A now delisted peated entry from Jura that feels somewhat clunky and indecisive in its character, lacking the smoke it markets and offering very little in its mid-palate and top notes.
COLOR
Golden nectar.
BODY
Moderately oily.
NOSE
Leather charred over an oak fireplace.
PALATE
Leather non-existent here, predominantly peat smoke and sea water, albeit too thin to bring any other notes in.
FINISH
Like biting into a packet of steak and onion ridge-cut chips.
SCORE: 2/5
Jura : Seven Wood
42% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
The island’s most ambitious of their new range is finished in a combination of six different French oak casks (Vosges, Jupilles, Les Bertranges, Allier, Tronçais, and Limousin) offering a relatively pleasing nose but a monotonous palate devoid of the characters hoping to have been developed from multiple wine cask influence. A sadly missed opportunity.
COLOR
Polished gold.
BODY
Medium. Slow moving, thin legs.
NOSE
Rich, freshly baked banana bread resting in an oven with a large bowl of cookie/cake mixture sitting next to it. Promising.
PALATE
None of the notes above present here. Maybe a suggestion of raisins(?) I searched and found nothing.
FINISH
Bitter and hot. Too many casks spoil the whisky, especially in this case of a constrained ABV. A real shame.
SCORE: 2/5
Tullibardine : 225
43% ABV | 70cl | HIGHLANDS
The highland distillery’s recent addition to their line-up is finished in a 225L Sauternes cask which once held dessert wine from Château Suduiraut. Unfortunately, the constrained character here fails in showing off what could have possibly been a multi-layered, enticing dram.
COLOR
Pale straw.
BODY
Oily. Slow moving, thick legs.
NOSE
Pineapples follow apricots layered with peaches and jelly candies. Suggestion of banana bread.
PALATE
An upfront pepper, almost hot on the tongue. Pineapples, peaches and apricots precede chewy mixed gummy bears and bite-sized marshmallow chunks.
FINISH
Disappointingly short; the Sauternes influence doesn’t stick around for long. A subtle linger of thin banana bread slices; not thick enough. Missing that sticky, chewy mouthfeel you’d expect from this type of wine cask influence.
SCORE: 3/5
Lowlands Whiskey
AUCHENTOSHAN
Reviews of whiskies from the lowest part of Scotland and the most commonly travelled to from the England and Wales, noted for their light, floral and honeyed flavors and triple-distilling.
Auchentoshan : 5 Year (IR)
46% ABV | 70cl | LOWLANDS | INDEPENDENT BOTTLING
An independent Càrn Mòr bottling, part of their Strictly Limited range, distilled in 2012, matured in single sherry puncheon and limited to 697 bottles.
COLOR
Beautiful, deep 18k gold with a tinge of orange. 9k beading.
BODY
Moderately oily with thick, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Baked figs and plums open up to blood oranges, pineapple and coconut shavings, followed by boiled sweets, honey and brown cane sugar.
PALATE
Brown cane sugar, honey and cinnamon dusting soon following. A suggestion of allspice and custard powder.
FINISH
Instantly drying oak spice with an intense, yet not overpowering warmth.
SCORE: 4/5
Campbeltown Whiskey
GLEN SCOTIA
Once heralded as the ‘Whisky Capital of the World’, Campbeltown is now home to just three distilleries: Glen Scotia, Glengyle (bottled as Kilkerran) and Springbank, with vintage bottlings of the latter fetching for considerable amounts at auction houses.
Glen Scotia : Port Finish 2008
57.8% ABV | 70cl | CAMPBELTOWN | LIMITED RELEASE
A cask strength release, bottled in 2018 for the Malts Festival, this whiskey offers some interesting, sumptuous flavors, let short by its lack of development and lackluster finish.
COLOR
Rusty amber. Gold beading.
BODY
Oily. Long, slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Musty leather and cranberries.
PALATE
Water unveils juicy fruits; cranberries and pomegranates.
FINISH
Musty character returns with rock salt and lime juice.
SCORE: 3/5
Islay Whisky
BOWMORE / BUNNAHABHAIN / KILCHOMAN / LAGAVULIN / LAPHROAIG
Reviews which cover whiskies from the Isle of Islay, typically characterised by their intensely smoky, medicinal and maritime flavours, from distilleries across the Kildalton Coast, as well as up north of Port Ellen and westward.
Bowmore : 9 Year
40% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE
An entirely sherry cask matured whiskey from Islay’s oldest distillery, the Bowmore 9 Year sounds promising on paper but fails to deliver on its oak influence.
COLOR
Blushing bronze.
BODY
Medium, fast-moving, thin legs.
NOSE
Fudge and brown sugar.
PALATE
The sherry influence comes in first, with very subtle dark chocolate, then subtle peat smoke, TCP/medicinal character, before the sherry character returns.
FINISH
Warming smoke and gooseberries.
SCORE: 3/5
Bunnahabhain : 12 Year
46.3% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY
With a respectable ABV for a 12 year, seldom noticed with bottlings of the same age, this well-established aged statement from Islay’s maverick distillery is truly impressive, and does something other distilleries whose USP is sherry cask Scotch should take note of.
COLOR
Brass.
BODY
Medium, with slow-moving, thin legs.
NOSE
Plums, fruit cake and tangerines, all bold and vibrant. A suggestion of banana and cloves.
PALATE
Fruit cake, ripe plums and candied orange and marmalade. This is big, bold sherried character.
FINISH
Very subtle, gentle, discernable whiff of smoke. Mildly drying, with a resinous exit of autumn spice.
SCORE: 4.5/5
Bunnahabhain : 12 Year (IR)
50% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | INDEPENDENT RELEASE
The Bunnahabhain 12 Year, released by independent bottlers Hunter Laing as part of their single cask Old Malt Cask series, is a well-developed spirit with both breadth and depth.
COLOR
Rusty amber, golden yellow beading.
BODY
Oily, slow-moving, medium legs.
NOSE
Stewed fruits, brittle toffee and fresh valley moss, with musty leather soon following.
PALATE
Black pepper, caramel and fruit salad candy chews followed by milk chocolate.
FINISH
Black pepper sustains itself here, along with characteristic oak spice.
SCORE: 4/5
Kilchoman : Loch Gorm 2016
46% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE
A sherry-matured release from Kilchoman, named after the respective loch in Scotland and distilled in 2010 before being bottled in 2016. An interesting and obscure concoction of pungent notes let down by an underdeveloped thin body and lack of finish.
COLOR
Polished bronze.
BODY
Light. Very thin, fast-moving legs.
NOSE
Burning industrial plastic; profound and developed. A striking image of an old, dark wooden study desk burning in a murky winter field. Leather boot polish follows.
PALATE
Phenolic. Dark chocolate and fireside moss. Slight suggestion of used bubblegum – tough with little candied flavour remaining. Like sniffing a half-used cigarette lighter. Vapid, wishing for further character.
FINISH
Thin on the finish. Overall could benefit from a higher ABV / at cask strength.
SCORE: 2.5/5
Kilchoman : Sauternes 2016
50% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE | 6,000 BOTTLES
This entirely Sauternes-matured whisky distilled back in 2011 boasts impressively fleshed out candied notes balanced delicately with musty, phenolic smoke.
COLOR
Polished gold.
BODY
Light. Very slow-moving thin legs.
NOSE
Candied sweets follow vanilla, toffee, plums and orange essence all off a sticky piece of leather. Water introduces burnt phosphorous paper, akin to matchbox paper.
PALATE
Musty wood smoke, followed by chewy candied sweets, jelly babies and syrup-soaked orange cubes.
FINISH
Humming of gelatine sweetness continues alongside signature smoke.
SCORE: 4/5
Lagavulin : 16 Year
43% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY
A staple of the peated whisky world, the Lagavulin 16 has seen considerable volatility in its market price in recent months. Owing to this, the character at play here doesn’t quite justify the dollars.
COLOR
Golden amber with 18k beading.
BODY
Oily with thick, fast-moving legs
NOSE
Peat smoke, seaweed (run ashore) and pine oil. Further breathing unveils sea salt and tropical fruits.
PALATE
Peat smoke, tar and brine. An earthiness, which works nicely alongside the peat, yet leaves you desiring for more.
FINISH
Cereal notes, particularly malt barely comes through here, leading to a drying finish. While many would agree this is a beast, the peat smoke on offer here feels more welterweight.
SCORE: 3.5/5
Lagavulin : Jazz 2016
54.5% ABV | 5cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE
An absolute stunner of a whisky, the Jazz 2016 is a collectable bottling to celebrate the distillery’s bicentenary and the Islay Jazz Festival 2016. Bottled straight from refilled American oak hogsheads and first-fill American oak barrels, this dram fits the festive shoe perfectly.
COLOR
Very pale copper, touch of green.
BODY
Medium legs, medium body.
NOSE
Split vanilla pods. Papaya cubes.
PALATE
Gunpowder smoke, bonfire ash. Charred oakwood. Crushed rock salt and black pepper follow. Water accentuates. A humming of granulated brown sugar. This is how it’s done.
FINISH
Fiery cocktail continues, seasoning lends to burnt ash. While there is a sharp exit, it comes with a sustained warmth. There are no half measures with this one, nor should there be. A helm of an achievement.
SCORE: 5/5
Laphroaig : Lore
48% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | LIMITED RELEASE
Combining a blend of older-stock spirit from five different types of wood to reflect the long, complex history of the distillery, the Lore unfortunately doesn’t do this justice, with disappointing, constrained palate notes and thins considerably on the finish.
COLOR
Golden barley, tawny lights.
BODY
Long, fast-moving legs. Oily.
NOSE
Polished fence (oak), lime, phenols, dried old seaweed on a muddy, desolate beach. Old, musty study desks and swimming pool chlorine follow.
PALATE
Seaweed evolves next to antiseptic cream, rock salt lingers. For its ABV, there is an expectation of more here.
FINISH
Short and sharp.
SCORE: 2.5/5
Laphroaig : Quarter Cask
48% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY
An outstanding NAS from the famed Islay distillery; matured in American oak then quarter-sized casks to boost its phenolic, muscular character further. A true zenith, the Quarter Cask encapsulates everything that makes peated Islay whisky both great and divisive, and rightly celebrates it too.
COLOR
Brass clarinet
BODY
Thin with fast moving, surprisingly oily legs.
NOSE
Tangerines and iodine. Water introduces dusty old garden sheds; unkempt, well-worn, untreated. Volatile sediment/residue at the bottom of an empty petroleum tank.
PALATE
Smoked BBQ chips that develop to burnt alongside coal and cigarette ash. Hardened leather, coarse, punished in a vat of industrial spirit. A humming of pine oil.
FINISH
A continued envelope of sophisticated phenolic character. Sustained and affirmed. Muscular and volatile. Picture lighting your tenth Marlboro inside a ramshackle garden shed with petrol cans littered amongst the wood rot. But all in a complex way. If you like your whiskey nautical and brutal, you’ll love this. Quality stuff.
SCORE: 5/5
The Secret Islay : 8 Year (IR)
40% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | INDEPENDENT BOTTLING
An independent bottling from The Whisky Shop as part of their Glenkeir Treasures series, the peated spirit from this unknown distillery is aged in sherry casks to deliver a flavor that embodies classic Islay Scotch at a modest price tag.
COLOR
Blood orange, ruby lights.
BODY
Oily. Long, slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Bonfire smoke and tobacco ash.
PALATE
Dark chocolate, rose water, burnt tobacco and jasmine leaf. Some interesting combinations here, yet they work well without overpowering one another.
FINISH
Short but with little tang. The palate notes fade gently away.
SCORE: 4/5
Blended Whisky
CUTTY SARK
Wrongly presumed as being inferior to Single Malt Whiskies, blended whiskies have been around for much longer and have a complex, interesting history; providing the Scotch scene with both variety and significant financial lifeblood for its many distilleries.
Cutty Sark : 25 Year
45.7% ABV | 70cl | BLENDED
For its age, the release from Berry Bros & Rudd (at the time) is frustratingly disappointing, with a considerable lack of depth and complexity expected from a spirit with stock of this maturation period.
COLOR
Dirty gold with orange beading.
BODY
Thin, slow-moving legs.
NOSE
Tropical fruits, stone fruits, thick caramel and berries, followed by vanilla pods.
PALATE
Dark fruits and dark chocolate. Feels somewhat limited.
FINISH
Acrid tang leaves a longing for more.
SCORE: 3/5
Cutty Sark : Prohibition
40% ABV | 70cl | ISLAY | INDEPENDENT BOTTLING
With a highly respectable ABV and extraordinary flavors to boot, the Cutty Sark Prohibition does the blended whisky market thorough justice whilst retaining a modest price tag.
COLOR
Golden sunshine. Yellow beading.
BODY
Medium. Oily, fast-moving, thin legs.
NOSE
White grape skin, black cherries, plum jam, vanilla pods and rock salt unveil one after the other, followed by black fruits and leather.
PALATE
Fruit cake, plum and blueberry jam. Figs soon follow, with a suggestion of dates.
FINISH
Marmalade notes slowly recede away.
SCORE: 5/5
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